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Frequently Asked Questions

Workflow

(what a jeweler's workplace should be, share photos, wishes, knowledge, tips)



Of course, a jeweler's workplace can be like a book http://iznedr.ru/books/item/f00/s00/z0000032/st032.shtml However, time goes by - everything changes, so do people's needs. Those who order jewelry and those who make them. Accordingly, the jeweler's workspace is constantly undergoing some changes. The main characteristic of the workplace is convenience and comfort. To make it easy and quick to get, nothing prevented, the chipped metal was collected in the pallet, the light was properly directed. According to statistics, experienced jewelers prefer hand-made tables. The advantage of this workplace is that it fully meets the individual requirements.

So, in this section we share a photo of your jewelry table, tell you about the advantages of your workplace, the disadvantages that you would like to correct, if any. We advise how to improve the workspace in each case.
(questions, tips, discussion about the initial stages of jewelry making)



Much of the work process of creating jewelry is occupied by the processing of parts of the product, their installation, fitting, removal of defects. Soldering, grinding are given in separate sections "Melting, soldering, alloys, solders" and "Polishing, grinding, cleaning".

A variety of tools are used for basic mounting processes, including rulers, compasses, markers for marking, hammers, kerners, scissors, jigsaws, various files, needles, drills and many others. Accordingly, all of them require proper application and proper care (share tips). Also questions and discussions on all major processes that arise and how to avoid them.
(questions, tips, discussion on how to properly melt and solder, what solders and alloys to use, working conditions, necessary equipment and tools, materials)



In order to carry out such technological processes as melting of precious metals, soldering parts of jewelry, using alloys of appropriate sample and composition, it is necessary to study and understand the structure of metals and alloys, their properties, how the environment influences them, methods of protection, annealing and metal normalization, tempering and release, and chemical-thermal treatment.

In this section we discuss the melting process - the required melting temperatures for various alloys, melting crucibles and bowls, fluxes, gas and gasoline vodka, melting of pure metals, melting alloys, varieties and properties of solders. But the brazing process is the one-piece connection of metal parts with the help of molten alloy (solder). The conditions required for soldering are well cleaned and cleaned parts of the jewelry, solder and solder metal must form an alloy, that is, penetrate into each other. We also discuss varieties of solders, recipes for perfect alloys and the processes of their creation and bonding.

We also share photos and tips on equipping your workplace with these processes, and discussing the tools and materials you need.



When grinding, numerous hard abrasive grains of the grinding wheel or any other abrasive material affect the workpiece, as well as various cutting tools, ie remove a certain layer of metal. Coarse grains are used to change the shape, and fine-grained abrasives are used to obtain a smooth surface. When polishing it is smoothed, however, until the matte surface is leveled and brought to a glossy gloss, which is achieved by the use of fine-grained polishing agent, which removes a very thin layer of metal. It is not possible to distinguish clearly between sanding and polishing. Upon completion of these processes, the jewelry should be cleaned of any abrasive material. For this purpose, ultrasonic washing is most often used, with the addition of a suitable professional cleaning agent in the liquid (discussed in the section "Jewelry chemistry"), on an industrial scale steam cleaners, in individual cases, manual cleaning is possible.



Engraving is one of the oldest ways of working metal. Its essence is the drawing of a linear drawing or a relief on a material by means of a cutter. Nowadays, manual work on metal engraving has been largely replaced by engraving with the help of laser installations and other profile machines (this is discussed in the section "Laser technologies"). It is in this section that we discuss all the difficulties that a jeweler faces when performing manual engraving with a cutter. Starting from transferring the drawing to the desired metal or finished product, secure it before starting work. We also talk about the preparation of the tool, what kind of a die what job to do (Spitzstichel, Messerstichel, vestichtehel, Justirstichel, Flachstichel, Bolstichel, Fadenstichel). And we also brag about our achievements, photo works.

(discussion of technological points of casting of silver, gold)



The art of casting was known for 5,000 years BC. Of course, now all processes related to casting are mechanized. However, as in each of the processes there are their own peculiarities.

In this section we discuss what molding mixes you use, the rods and their manufacturing, the types of molds (cast iron, steel, aluminum) and their characteristics, the pros and cons of using one or the other. What molding tools do you use (photos, description, tips for making customized tools). We discuss various types of molding (simple model, split model, with false rest, partial molding, etc.). On the vacuum and centrifugal absorption of metal when casting into molds. About the pressure drop and shrinkage of metal, and other subtleties of the precious metal casting process and everything related to it.


Gold and silver chains are one of the most common jewelry. Today, there are a large number of weaves, the most common of which are bismarck, cardinal, anchor, venetian, etc. The important processes in the production of chains are the calculation of the weight and length of the chain, how to make the wire and wiring the necessary thickness, the correct bundling, the process of soldering, bleaching, leveling and polishing. Also for each weave there are different varieties (for example, a bismarck, double bismarck, triple bismarck, Arabic bismarck). You can learn more about manufacturing technology here http://tsepochnik.ru/

In the same section we share our experience, helping each other in difficult moments for beginners.


(as right, better, faster, better product. We share achievements, tips, secrets)


A very voluminous, complex and debatable topic is the production of individual jewelry. Starting from designing for a specific person, to his wishes, needs, his love story or just a story, ending with handing the finished product to the happy (or not very)))) owner.
Here we share our achievements, tips, secrets. As correct, as better, as faster, better as possible to make a product.
In this section we share our own experience in the manufacture of individual products. Cast Wax and Finish - This is the topic for How to Do or Different Jewelry Themes or Rubber Molds, Injectors for your question.


(discussing difficult points, helping each other)

How to make? This question first arises when you see the work you have to do. Immediately there is a certain plan of work, division into processes and the choice of the best variant of creation of this or that jewelry. In some cases, at the beginning, inside the machining process, or even during the final stages of manufacturing, you may be thinking, "What better way to proceed?" It is in such cases that we invite you to ask questions at the Amala Sambar Ukrainian Jewelry Forum.


(proper fixing, all the intricacies of working with natural inserts, working with artificial inserts)

Gem fixing is considered to be one of the most difficult processes and requires a jeweler of great skill and considerable knowledge in the field of hemology. The first task for the fixer is the right choice of the fixer of a stone, which should correspond to the general idea of ​​the product. Among the main types of stone fixing can be distinguished the following basic ones: blind fixing, debris, corneal. Each has its own subspecies. It should also be noted that many experienced jewelers have their own special ways of fixing precious stones.

In each of the ways there are pros and cons to consider, as well as to warn the client of the possible risks. For example, when a large area of ​​the product is covered with stones or placed in a circle, it is not possible to change the size of the product in the future. The spring fastener, for example, has the risk of losing precious insertion during improper use and improper care. Thorough cleaning of the product or professional cleaning is required from time to time when the Halo fitting.

For more information about these methods of fixing, as well as about fixing pave, quads, faden, pumpkin, carmazine and others, see the section "Library"

In this section we discuss all the intricacies of working with the fixing of precious stones, work with artificial jewelry inserts, technique of execution. We rank the fixing method from the most used to the least used from our own experience.


(we specify which enamels we work with, the specifics of working with them. We discuss and consult in difficult and unclear moments in working with them)

Working with jewelry enamels has always been time-consuming, complex and, accordingly, time-consuming. Enamels are divided into cold and hot. The technique of hot enamels is now very little used in jewelry. Hot enamel is a glass of complex composition, intended for surfacing on metal. The complex composition of enamel is necessary for a strong alloy with metal. The chemical elements are oxides of lead, silicon, potassium, barium, sodium, antimony and oxides of color metals. The color of enamels is very diverse and is achieved by the introduction of the corresponding metal oxides into the alloy.

Cold enamels are various in constituents and characteristics. They are mainly two-component paints consisting of a binder and a dye. Cold enamels are divided into transparent, translucent and deaf on light penetration. They can also be polished or not. When technology is simple at first glance, certain difficulties often arise in the work with enamels, regarding the proportions of components, curing time, surface uniformity, color, adhesion to the surface and others.

In this section we indicate which enamels we work with, their characteristics, pros and cons in your opinion. We discuss and advise you about difficult moments or unexpected turns.


(at all stages of production, as well as communication with the client)

When working in a home workshop, in a workshop with other colleagues, or in a jewelry factory, the jeweler is always asked not only to make a quality jewelry, but also on time. Therefore, you need to objectively evaluate your professional skills and the speed of completion of certain processes.

It is impossible to say unequivocally how long this or that production process takes. After all, even in the manufacture of the same model, there may be some difficulties that need to be eliminated in time: the alloy of white gold was fragile, the presence of a suitable solder, whether all the details of the design agreed, cracked the drill, broken drill, etc. Accordingly, it is necessary to spend time, which extends the total duration of manufacture.

Separate item is communication with the client. It's always exciting and requires some experience. Not always the jeweler communicates with the customer, which requires professionalism not only of the jeweler, but also of the manager. So, if you have experience in dealing with people when ordering jewelry, you can share experiences, funny cases, etc. Also in this section is your recipe for effective time sharing about processes. Advice. Question.


From the initial stages of jewelry production there is a need to use certain chemicals. In his work, the jeweler uses acids and salts, alkalis, and assay reagents, various chemical compounds to cover the jewelry, to clean precious metals and stones, and additional shine.

Among the acids required by the jeweler, the most commonly used are nitric acid, boric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, as well as metabolic acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrocyanic acid, phosphoric, chromic and others. The necessary alkalis include ammonia, caustic calcium, caustic caustic, caustic soda. Important salts for the jeweler are - borax, potash, soda, calcium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium chloride, zinc chloride, as well as ammonium nitrate, potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate and others.

You will find more details about the workflow with the appropriate chemical in the books in the Library section. Here we discuss your experience of using certain compounds and in what processes (soldering, cleaning, refining and others)



If you are a jeweler, you work with precious metals and inserts, you will eventually have your own methods of working with these materials. Doing the technology, one way or another, will do on your own and you will get to improve the technology or completely to a new non-standard method of processing. If you have these experiences and would like to share them, we invite you to discuss in this section. If you are working on new techniques borrowed from colleagues from other countries, you can also share here or in the Development Opportunities section.




(discuss the advantages and disadvantages of laser technology: laser soldering, cutting, engraving, etc.)

Laser material processing technologies are a new but popular method of processing for various technological operations: welding, cutting, marking and engraving, heat treatment, drilling holes. The jewelry sector has been used relatively recently, so it is now gradually gaining momentum, while expanding the ability of jewelers to produce jewelry using new technologies.

In the jewelry industry, the laser first began to be used to repair various pieces of jewelry that are difficult to secure otherwise. Laser welding has become widespread in the mass production of chains. After all, it allows you to simplify and accelerate the manufacturing process, using different technological operations on the same equipment.

The advantage of laser welding is the locality of the involved heat, the absence of fluxes and filler material (solder), the minimum cost of materials during welding, the ability to perform complex tasks, welding jewelry parts with stones, practically without heating the decoration completely. It should be noted that laser welding is one of the most complicated technological processes and requires skill and adherence to the rules in assembly, modes, preparation of the site for welding.

Laser welding with an additive (surfacing) occurs with the use of solder. This method allows sealing of voids and sinks that can occur during polishing products after casting, as well as welding products with large intervals.

One of the most interesting methods of processing precious metals is marking and engraving. With their help, various parts of the product can be applied to various drawings, inscriptions, logos and more. Laser marking has high precision and fine lines, allowing you to mark the plane for further manual engraving.

So, in this section we share the experience of working with laser installations, note the advantages and disadvantages, features of laser treatment of precious metals.



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